Even when I add the box to a points ignition system it goes from being perfectly fine as a standard points setup but as soon as I switch the coil wires around and fire up the box it goes to a very bouncy timing mark that is difficult to time. I get the issue with any car here that I run the box on. ![]() It's not the MSD ready to run distributors or any of that stuff. It's actually caused by the MSD CDC boxes. If you've ever experienced it, it's the timing mark bouncing around. So is the problem inaccurate timing ,timing mark bounce,or something else? My old chrome sunpro with mechanical dial seems very steady. 035 end play when I took it out the other day. I measured my DUI ,which only had about 1000-1500 miles on it and it has. ![]() I measured it when I got it back and has exactly. I sent it back and they said they replaced the shaft. ![]() I did have to send the MSD dist back though cause out of the box there was zero shaft end play and it wouldnt spin freely with my fingers. This new MSD dist has a very stable timing mark at any RPM. Id rev up the motor with the DUI and the mark would move around some especially the higher the rev. Using my old gun on both dist I will say the MSD has the most stable timing mark in awhile. I took out a DUI "tripower" small bodied HEI dist that I was having problems with(another thread) and replaced it with a MSD ready to run billet dist. I guess Ill just try it when I get it and see how it works. So thats why I asked here to see what your experiences were. But i have to say, it is by far the nicest light i have ever seen or used-and i am sure it has to be made by one of the above mentioned companies for Snap On-in fact it looks similar to the equus unit above, without the swivel head.īottom line is, i paid through the nose for it-probably just for the name, but it seems to be super accurate, has been used with points, electronic, MSD 6AL, 7AL2 ignitions and has never let me down and no sign of spark scatter ever-unless it had to do with the timing slack in chain driven engines.Well while I was reading some q&a last night about whether this light would work with mSD ,I did see where there were a few that said it didnt work for them where the majority said it did. I just sent it out a week ago to get fixed-that one is going to cost me another $100.Īnyhow, enough of my own stupidity, its a digital dial back, has a tach on it too-heck it may do other things i never knew about. It still worked but you had to be gingerly about hooking it up. But i have to say i have had zero issues with it other than the fact i laid the inductive clip on a header tube and melted it. I have a Snap On Digital light i bought about 12 years ago. Sorry for the long post, just thought I would throw my experience out there. As long as they are consistant, the absolute numbers shouldn't normally matter TOO much, but my motor is on the edge of detonation so I need to keep the timing in check at all times. ![]() I will keep both and continue to benchmark them against each other but, I guess this is close enough for me. Lastly the tach feature is nice when you are laying over the fan revving the piss out of the motor thinking your are "up there pretty good" only to find out you are at 2k or less.LOL I will say the digital light is pretty bad ass, the strobe is much brighter then the old Sunpro light and the digital action makes it idiot proof to add a degree or two with great accuracy. So for me, I consider two timing lights that are reading IDENTICAL to be pretty accurate, eventhough neither one I am supposed to be using due to their dial back feature and the MSD interference. I came home tested both at idle, 1500 rpms and at 3000 rpms(since MSDs are supposed to only fire single sparks after 3000).īoth lights read IDENTICAL at all engine speeds and degrees.Both light lights had about the same about of reading fluctionation at idle(I attribute this to the MSD multiple sparks but this was minimal) at 1500 rpms, both lights were reading the same smoothness at "0"(using the dial back set at 33*) and at 3000rpms, the line was rock steady at "0". My balancer is already degreed so I figured the standard style light would be easy to test against the dial back method but.since I couldnt find the non dial back light, I will just have to hope the dial back method is accurate.
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